Swell

Author: Evan Slater
Publisher: Chronicle Books
ISBN: 1452116490
Size: 49.63 MB
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Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography.

Methods For Analysing Wind Wave And Swell Data To Estimate On An Annual Basis The Number Of Days And The Maximum Duration Of Periods During Which Port And Ship Operations Will Be Impeded By These Elements

Author:
Publisher: PIANC
ISBN:
Size: 30.89 MB
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List of symbols Ep = Encounter probability F(H'S} = Mean frequency per year of
storms of level H's = 8760f(H's} {year— 1) f(h's) = Mean frequency per hour of
upcrossings of the level H's (hi— 1) Hs = Significant wave height {mean wave
height of the highest one-third of the waves (m) Hc = Parameter of scale in the
Weibull distribution of Hs (see Fig. 11) (m) H0 = Parameter in the Weibull
distribution of Hs (lower limit of wave height) (m) Y = Parameter of shape in the
Weibull distribution ...

Extreme Waves

Author: Craig B. Smith
Publisher: National Academies Press
ISBN: 9780309100625
Size: 59.59 MB
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In these cases there is no standard pattern to wave crests and troughs, and this
also can be called a “confused sea.” Swell eventually sorts itself out into one
regular pattern of waves, trough following crest in an endless roll across the open
ocean until land is reached. In this process, swell loses very ... certain years
stand out as years of giant swells in the Pacific—1953, 1969, 1983, and 2001, for
example.1 Of these, the swell of 1969 is perhaps the most notable. In late
November 1969, ...

Deep Water Waves And Swell State In Bass Strait

Author: K. T. Spillane
Publisher:
ISBN:
Size: 24.62 MB
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3 Average number of hours wave heights (H ) and periods (T ) 2 both exceed the
indicated values (all directions). Seasons. 4 Average number of hours wave
heights (H ) and periods (T ) both exceed the indicated values (all directions).
Yearly average. 1 5 Average number of hours per month, waves from given
directions 4 exceed stated period (T in seconds). Monthly. s 6 Average number of
hours per year, waves from given directions exceed stated period (T in seconds).
Average ...

Ocean Surface Waves

Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810221096
Size: 72.65 MB
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5.2.2.3 Nonlinear coupling between swell and wind waves In nature, the
conditions of a uniform wind blowing over an ocean initially at rest occur very
infrequently. Usually the local wind waves develop in the presence of a low-
frequency swell that has radiated from a distant storm. The long waves can
influence the shorter ones in various ways. For the shorter waves overtaken by
the longer ones, the maximum unbroken wave height is less than it would be in
the absence of the swell.

The Surfer S Guide To Waves Coasts And Climates

Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720585
Size: 36.48 MB
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Then, how many of these also have good prevailing wind conditions and regular,
long-lined swells of the right size and direction? Not many. So you can see that
the number we end up with is going to be pretty small. Also, the system has to be
stable and consistent. A perfect wave might appear one year in some estuary, but
that might have been a freak combination of excess riverflow due to a lot of snow
on the mountains, a run of westerly swells and unusual southerly winds, or some
 ...

Breaking Waves

Author: Michael Banner
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 3642848478
Size: 14.64 MB
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This phenomenon shows clear contrast to the attenuation of the wind waves by
swell propagating in the direction of the wind. Another interesting phenomenon is
that the drift current is much intensified by swell propagating against the wind
when the swell steepness increases. The increase of the drift current velocity is
much larger than the theoretical prediction of the mechanism proposed by
Phillips and Banner (1974). Introduction Many years ago Mitsuyasu [1] found an
interesting ...

Coastal Management

Author: Charles Alexander Fleming
Publisher: Thomas Telford
ISBN: 9780727728487
Size: 32.98 MB
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4 Wave Energy and Beach Losses Waves are both locally generated and Atlantic
swell, with wind induced energy being some 75% and swell some 25%. The
analysed data showed that, despite the wide scatter, there was clearly an
increasing trend in alongshore transport due to increases in alongshore wave
energy Indeed, the difference between the predicted erosion rates using wave
energy in an average year and the energy for more recent years, gives some 500
m3/year ...

Descriptive Physical Oceanography

Author: M. Affholder
Publisher: CRC Press
ISBN: 9780203969274
Size: 30.69 MB
Format: PDF
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Here, apart from "mature waves" which form due to particular wind conditions,
many other sizes of waves travelling in different directions are present. (b) Swell
wave Sea wave that has moved out of the wind generating area is called a "Swell
Wave". ... Totally about 1— million sets of wave observations collected by several
voluntary observing ships in the three non-polar oceans for a period of 8 years
from 1953 to 1961 were processed and nearly 1 million of these were used in the
 ...